Guide · Exterior painting

How do you know when your house exterior needs repainting?

Look at the paint itself, not the calendar. Chalk, cracks, flaking, failed caulk and bare or darkened wood are the signs the paint makers describe, and walking the house by element tells you whether a touch-up is enough.

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Short answer

The short answer

There is no sourced number of years after which a house must be repainted, so this guide does not give one. What Sherwin-Williams’ problem-solver pages do give is a list of conditions, each with a description, its likely causes and what to do about it. A house that shows several of them, over wide areas, is telling you the paint film is wearing out. A house that shows one of them in one place may need only a repair.

Sherwin-Williams also makes a point that saves money: for a dirty surface, washing comes first. Its page on dirt says that if the surface comes clean when washed, painting may not be necessary. The same goes for mildew: if mildew is the only problem, painting may not be necessary after the surface is cleaned. So the order of this guide is to wash and look, walk the house element by element, and only then decide between a touch-up and a full repaint.

Written by Modern Painters LLC. Last reviewed 24 October 2026. Sources are listed at the end.

What to look for

  • Fine white powder on the paint: chalking
  • Hairline cracks, or cracks like reptile scales
  • Flakes or sheets of paint lifting off
  • Caulk that has cracked or pulled away
  • Bare, gray or darkened wood
  • Black, gray, green or brown spots: mildew or dirt
  • Color that looks lighter on sunny walls only: fading
  • Peeling in one spot that returns: look for the water source

Before you decide

Wash a test patch first

Dirt can pass for failure. Sherwin-Williams lists splashed soil, air pollution and car exhaust as the usual outdoor dirt, and says to remove it with a scrub brush and detergent solution or pressure washing, followed by a thorough rinse. If the surface comes clean, painting may not be necessary.

Mildew can pass for dirt. Its test: put a few drops of household bleach on the spot. If the discoloration bleaches away, it is probably mildew; if not, it is probably dirt. Sherwin-Williams says mildew forms on surfaces that tend to stay damp or get little or no direct sunlight, and that paint does not cause it.

Both are reasons to wash one small area and look again before you judge the whole wall. On a house built before 1978, read the lead note at the end of this guide before scraping or sanding anything.

Sign 1

Chalking: a powder that comes off on your hand

Sherwin-Williams describes chalking as a fine, white powder on the surface of the paint film caused by weathering, which can look like the color fading. Some chalking is normal and can be a desirable way for a paint film to wear, but excessive erosion of the film may produce heavy chalking.

It lists likely causes of heavy chalk: oil paints, which tend to chalk more than latex; a low-grade, highly pigmented paint; an interior paint used outdoors; an unsealed porous surface; over-thinned paint; and paint spread too thin. Its fix is to wash or power wash the chalk off, wash again if some remains, scrub where needed, rinse with clear water and let the surface dry thoroughly. For the best resistance to chalking it recommends higher-quality acrylic coatings.

How to check: run a dry hand or a dark cloth over the paint in a sunny spot and a sheltered spot. Our guide on why exterior paint peels after a Wisconsin winter describes the cloth test and the bandage test for the bond of a repainted patch, both from the USDA Forest Products Laboratory. Chalk matters because Sherwin-Williams says that if chalkiness is not removed from aluminum siding, new paint will not adhere properly.

Sign 2

Cracks and flakes: how far down do they go?

Sherwin-Williams defines cracking as the splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat: hairline cracks in the early stages and flaking in the later stages. Flaking is the lifting of paint in the form of flakes and is generally preceded by cracking. Its list of causes includes paint that has lost its flexibility as it ages, a paint with lower adhesion and flexibility, paint spread or thinned too much, and bare wood painted without a primer.

Alligatoring is a separate pattern: cracks resembling the scales of an alligator, which generally do not expose the surface underneath. Sherwin-Williams attributes it to oil paints aging through temperature swings, to a hard, rigid coating over a softer one, to a topcoat put on before the primer was dry, and to paint over a glossy finish.

The depth decides the repair. For cracking and flaking, Sherwin-Williams says to remove loose and flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sand and feather the edges, and prime bare wood before repainting. It also says to test the paint in a 6 to 12 inch radius around any peeled area to be sure the adhesion is good enough, and that wood must not be left to weather before it is coated.

Sign 3

Caulk: the joints are where water gets in

Sherwin-Williams describes caulk failure as the loss of the caulk’s first adhesion and flexibility, so that painted caulk cracks or pulls away from the surfaces it was applied to. Its causes: lower-quality caulk, the wrong type for the job, a surface that was not prepared or primed, and a bead that was too thin.

This is worth checking early because the same company lists worn-out or missing caulking at joints, corners and openings as a way for moisture to reach the wood behind exterior paint, and moisture is what makes a substrate swell and the paint loosen, crack and fall off. Its fix is to remove loose or cracked caulking and repair it with a quality product. For caulk that will be painted, it says a top-quality all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk suits places where prolonged contact with water is not expected, and that pure silicone caulk should not be painted.

Sign 4

Gray, dark or soft wood

Sherwin-Williams says wood darkens from ultraviolet light, which can happen on wood that has never been coated, and that if moisture gets into the wood the wood can eventually decay until it can no longer be coated. Wood with the look of severe mildew that does not lighten when tested with bleach, and that looks more solid and consistent, may be darkened or decaying wood.

Its guidance: do not leave new wood exposed to weather for long, coat it before or right after installation, and if a surface has weathered, sand it to fresh wood before priming. Wood that cannot be sanded to fresh wood must be replaced. Wood must also be dry first: for treated wood it gives a paintable moisture level of usually 15% or below, and a splash test: water that soaks in and darkens the surface shows it is not waterproof.

Sign 5

Fading: only a sign if everything else is sound

Sherwin-Williams describes fading as premature or excessive lightening of the color on sunny exposures. It says this is easy to see because hidden areas such as eaves do not usually fade, and that heavy chalking can make a color look lighter. Slight fading is acceptable, it says, provided it is gradual and uniform.

Its advice when the surface is otherwise in good condition: clean as needed and repaint with a fade-resistant paint, following the label’s surface-preparation directions. In other words, fading alone is a cosmetic call, not proof the paint has failed.

The walk-through

Walk the house by element

Take one element at a time and look for the signs above. Sunny walls are where Sherwin-Williams says fading shows, so compare a sunny wall with a sheltered one; exposure can be different on every side of a house, so check all four rather than assuming which one is worst. Sheltered places matter for a different reason: Sherwin-Williams says that under eaves, porches and other protected areas, weather does not clean the surface, so contaminants and salts can build up and keep a new coat from bonding.

Use this list as a checklist. It names things to check, not a finding about any house.

Element by element

  • Siding: chalk, cracks, flaking, fading, mildew spots
  • Trim, fascia and window sills: flakes, bare wood, soft wood
  • Joints and corners, around windows and doors: caulk gaps
  • Under eaves and porch ceilings: lifting paint, dirt film
  • Low on walls near the ground: peeling, darkened wood
  • Below gutters and roof edges: peeling that keeps returning
  • Each side of the house: compare sunny and shaded walls

The decision

Touch-up or full repaint?

This guide does not give a rule of thumb, because the sources do not give one. What they do give is a way to reason about it. Washing alone may be enough for dirt and mildew. Sound paint with only fading may need only a clean and a fresh coat. Failures confined to one spot, such as a single run of cracked caulk or a patch of flaking, can be repaired, but the cause has to be found first: Sherwin-Williams’ fix for moisture peeling starts with the caulk, gutters, vents, roof and ground clearance, and not with a new coat.

Touch-ups carry their own catch. Sherwin-Williams lists the reasons a repaired spot shows: a different tool from the original, a different batch of paint, a repair with a different texture, and a much different temperature on the day. It suggests using the same tool, keeping some of the original batch, and feathering the repair into the surrounding surface.

Signs across many walls or elements, wide cracking and flaking, or chalk that returns after washing point toward repainting the whole surface. Whoever you ask, ask for the diagnosis in writing and the preparation that comes with it. Our exterior painting page describes how we prepare and paint siding and trim.

Wisconsin conditions

Why winter is the season to look

NOAA’s 1991–2020 climate normals count 123 to 159 nights a year with a low at or below 32°F at eight weather stations in Milwaukee and Waukesha counties, the table in our peeling guide. Those are air temperatures at the stations, not measurements of anybody’s paint, and they do not predict how long a paint job lasts.

What they do tell you is how long the freezing season is here, and the same company describes moisture entering behind paint as the way exterior paint comes loose. So a walk-around in spring, once the snow is off, shows what the winter did to caulk, joints and paint edges. Painting itself waits for the weather: Sherwin-Williams’ guidance is 50°F for standard latex, lower only for products made for it, and above the dew point for at least 48 hours after each coat. Our guide on when to paint outside in Wisconsin has the month-by-month detail.

Homes built before 1978

Before scraping or sanding an older house

Sherwin-Williams puts a lead notice on every one of the problem pages cited here, and the repair steps for chalking, cracking and flaking involve scraping, sanding or power washing. For a home built before 1978, the Wisconsin Department of Health Services requires certified lead-safe work when more than 20 square feet of exterior painted surface is disturbed, and it publishes a list of certified companies. Our peeling guide goes through the rule in full.

Common questions

How often should a house be repainted?

We found no source that gives a dependable number of years, so we do not give one. Inspect the paint for the signs above instead. Sherwin-Williams does say that colder temperatures and moisture on the surface at application can shorten the life expectancy of the paint, which is one reason the weather on painting day matters.

Can I just paint over the old paint?

Only over sound paint that has been prepared. Sherwin-Williams says to remove loose and flaking paint, sand glossy paint dull, wash off chalk and contamination, rinse and let it dry, and to follow the label’s directions. Painting over a contaminant the coating cannot adhere to is listed as a cause of blistering.

Is fading a sign I need to repaint?

Not by itself. Sherwin-Williams says slight fading is acceptable if it is gradual and uniform, and that if the surface is otherwise in good condition, cleaning and repainting with a fade-resistant paint is the fix.

Will washing the house fix it?

It can for dirt and mildew. Sherwin-Williams says that if the surface comes clean, painting may not be necessary, and that if mildew is the only problem, painting may not be necessary after cleaning. It does not fix cracking, flaking or failed caulk.

Sources

What this guide is based on

Manufacturer guidance: Sherwin-Williams’ problem-solver pages and exterior application FAQ, read 24 October 2026 and paraphrased. Public data: NOAA U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020, as tabulated in our peeling guide. Government guidance on lead: the Wisconsin Department of Health Services. We did not cite ASTM test standards because we could not verify them. The label and data sheet of the product used on your house override all of it.

Written by Modern Painters LLC. Last reviewed 24 October 2026. Spotted an error? Email hello@modernpainterswi.com.

Not sure whether it needs a repaint?

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